Ruger MK. I, Ruger MK. II, MK. III, Ruger 22/45
When it comes to plinking with a .22 pistol, the handgun most likely to be used will be some variation of a Ruger, whether it's an older Mk I, a MK II, the newly released MK III, or a 22/45. The Ruger .22's are kind of like the small block Chevrolet to the hot-rodders. They're inexpensive, readily available, and there's tons of after-market goodies. Ruger makes a number of variations available, (have a look at ruger's web site here), and you can then customize it from there. Of course, there's also lots of good used Rugers to be had, too.
The basic design was developed at a time when Hi Standard and the Colt Woodsman were dominant in the marketplace. Ruger, through innovative design, was able to come up with a .22 pistol that could be inexpensively produced, and thus eventually dominate the market. Instead of a more conventional slide, Ruger opted for a bolt that moved inside of a cylindrical receiver. Although novel, it has proved itself over the years.
All of the Ruger MK series use the more slanted grip angle, similar to the early Hi Standards and Woodsman. The 22/45 was a slightly more revolutionary design, employing the more upright "military" grip angle giving it a feel more like a 1911. The 22/45 also used composites in the grip/lower frame assembly. The grip panels cannot be changed on a 22/45, as they can on the MK series. The rubber finger groove grip sleeve seems to be a popular addition to the 22/45. I think it is an improvement, giving a better feel.
Many, but not all, feel that the trigger feel and pull need some work, and Volquartsen, and others, make kits to do just that, and to do it well. As for the sights, there again, there are lots of choices. The high visibility red glow from sights are a nice attition, in my opinion.
There are basically two ways to mount a scope onto a Ruger that is not already so equipped. One way involves drilling and tapping, then bolting the scope rail to the receiver. There are also a couple of "clamp-on" scope mounts that require no drilling and tapping. If you opt for one of these, be sure not to over-tighten the clamping screws, as it can distort the receiver, causing cycling problems.
My recommendations would be that if I was looking just for a plinker, they fill the bill well. This series, however, is slanted a bit towards rim fire race guns as you might use in local club competition. Out of the box, I think the Rugers need a little work to be all that they can be. Once they have been "breathed on" a bit, they can be VERY competitive on the club level. I personally like the feel of the 22/45 over the MK II, but that's just a personal preference.
The Rugers are the most popular .22 out there, there must be a reason…..
49 Comments:
Great post. I love my Ruger and will try to post a picture of it tonight. Its got a nice trigger (with about a 1 lb pull - very easy shooting) and superb Bomar sights. The only complaint though is that the sights weren't built for it and make reasembly even more difficult than it already is (which, in general is the only drawback to the Ruger .22s)
Couldn't agree more. The MarkII's are great. Mine is 18 years old and is cruising along just fine. I had a Clark trigger installed right after I bought it and that made a huge difference in my shooting. One of these days I'll get it drilled for a scope rail. My son keeps making noises about how a MarkII would be a good birthday present for him. He may just find that out next year
just bought my first ruger. my dad has had the mkII for over 20 years. it was always one of my favorite guns to shoot. i have got my own collection of handguns now. i can tell already that my mk III is going to be one of my favorites. mk's are great guns. i enjoy seeing the confidence in my son's shooting grow when they drive nails with are mk's love your site.
i've bought a used 10" barrel Mk II
earlier this yr. recently, i've
found that the entire barrel and
it's receiver can be turned back
and forth when griped and twisted at the barrel. i can turn like perhaps 1/16 inch arc. i've only shot about 100 rounds or less since purchase.
i havent taken it down since i've heard it's very hard to assemble and disassemble.
any suggestions?
my email: mtn_ssshupring7@hotmail.com
stanka dohkji
What is the trigger difference between the Mark II and the Mark III?
The Ruger part number for the Mk III, Competition Target, is a diffent part number, but what ....... ?
JJ
Does anyone know the value of a 1965 Ruger Mark I 8" Barrel automatic pistol?
Can a bull barrel be put on a Mark 1 with the stock barrel with fixed sights?
The cost to modify your Mk. I to have a bull barrel would be high enough that you'd be way better off to keep your Mk. I stock and pick up a used Mk. II with the barrel you want already on it. You might be able to find a bull barreled Mk. I, too.....
..... Mr. C.
I am having a heck of a time telling the difference between the Mk I, Mk II and Mk III, with or without Bull Barrel (do all "TARGET" models marked as such have BULL BARRELS?). I am also having a heck of a time identifying the 22/45 Mk I, 22/45 Mk II and 22/45 Mk III.
The features that I note are the magazine release... one is a button similar to the safety and the other is on the base of the grip. Which is which? The other thing is the slide release, one is, again, a button looking similar to the safety and the other is a wee thin bar.
I have people telling me that they are selling a 22/45 Mk II - and I believe that I already own one... it has the wee bar slide release, is marked 22/45 Mk II TARGET and has the mag release at the base of the grip... this I am obviously sure is a 22/45 Mk II. There is much confusion. Is there anywhere that identifies the various models all in one shot that I can point a hapless seller to in order to have him identify exactly what it is he is selling?
Thanks.
I just bought a Sig Mosquito and tried it for the first time. Why oh why did I not look on the net first to find out about Ruger MK? The skeeter is beautifully made door stop and from what information I have collected cannot compare to the Ruger Mk II/III. Maybe I can find some foolish person will trade an almost new Mosquito for a used Mk II.
I purchased a Mk III 22/45 and am experiencing feeding problems. The first 3 or 4 rounds that are loaded, sit up at the correct angle for flawless feeding. With the following rounds, the nose of the bullet sits too low to clear the edge of the feed ramp, which is where they hang up. I sent the magazines back to Ruger and they sent me 2 replacements. I still experience problems. I have tried a variety of ammo. Any suggestions?? I wish that I hadn't sold my Mk II 22/45. Never had a problem out of it.
I posted your question on Mr. Completely, so follow the comments at
Ruger Mk. III Feed Problems
and we'll see what comes up!
...... Mr. C.
I am left handed. I don't know what made Ruger change the magazine release button on the Mark III to the side. Luckily my gun shop took it back as I kept hitting the magazine release and creating jams.
Hi,
I have a few MKII's and would be willing to part with one for the SIG skeeter.
Brad.Mitchell@charter.net
What would you suggest a Mark II or Mark III?
Im new to this and am really attracted to the Rugers in general. A lot of the guys I have spoke to live by Ruger and Sigs.
I read all the posts, and I'll respond to the ones I can remember...
Search Youtube for "Ruger MkII" and there is a 39sec disassembly/reassembly video that is visually based, with no verbal instructions... Just imitate like an Orangutan.
It's a very simple thing to do. I don't understand how people can claim it to be difficult. It's not!
The SIG Mos may be a decent pistol, but it is overpriced. Some work, some don't... It's a pot-metal pistol. Generally speaking, you will probably be limited to using CCI Mini-Mag.
The Ruger MkIII is a POS... If you can find a MkI or MkII, you will be much better served, especially if you are left handed.
... The difference between the two is this: MkI does not have a last shot bolt hold open, and lacks a cutout near the rear of the receiver, allowing for a better grip on the bolt wings, especially while wearing gloves. The MkII has what the MkI lacks. The MkIII has lawyer added parts, designed by a retard in a highschool shop class... These include a loaded chamber indicator that can fire the pistol if bumped, a magazine disconnect that renders the pistol useless* if no magazine is inserted, and this disconnect can also cause malfunctions. (*It can still fire, but only as a single shot, by inserting an object into the magwell.)
The Ruger MkI and MkII are the best there is in the Ruger line. The 22/45 had it's grip redesigned when the MkIII came out. I like the new grip much better, but the lawyer parts make it a moot point.
Ugh, the MkIII also has a magazine release relocated to behind the trigger guard... Left handed users will find the older MkI and MkII to be better fit to a southpaw.
Do you think that stainless steel barrels shoot better than blued ones in the Mk II,and III's. Is it possible to put a Mk III 22/45receiver/barrel on a Mk II 22/45? I like the feel of the Mk II better.
I just purchased a used MKII blued...
with 8" bull barrel for $265 bucks, in the fine state of MI. WOOT,WOOT
cant wait to shoot it.
How is $265 for a LNIB 8"BBL MKII?
IVE HAD A FEEDING PROBLEM WITH MY 22/45 ALSO. WHEN USING THE CHEAP
LEAD HEAD HOLLOWPOINTS REINGINTON
SPECIALS AT WALLY WORLD THE BULLETS WOULD COME OUT OF THE CLIP
AND HIT THE LEADING EDGE OF THE FEED RAMB HEAD ON JAMMING THE PISTOL. THE FEED RAMP NEEDED TO BE EXTENDED ABOUT 3/16 INCH LONGER SO I "JB WELDED" A PENNY TO THE BOTTOM
OF THE FEED RAMP TRIMMED OFF THE
EXCESS WITH A DREMEL CUTTING WHEEL
COUNTOURED THE LEADING EDGE OF THE PENNY TO MATCH THE RAMPS ANGLE AND
FOR THE NEXT 10 YEARS NEVER HAD A FTF WITH EVEN THE WORST DINGED UP AMMO THAT I COULD FIND THE PLUS SIDE OF IT IS THAT ITS REVERSIBLE
IF IT DOESENT SOLVE YOUR PROBLEM
I puchased a Mark III 1 week ago and cannot get through a magazine without at least 3 FTF's, stovepipes, bolt not fully closing, etc... Biggest POS I have ever had. Definitely my last Ruger. They suck! By the way, anyone looking for a slightly used Mark III.
I have a Ruger .22 that I bought back in the middle 70's. 10+1 magazine. Obviously a target pistol with a what I think is a tapered 6.75" barrel. Chrome or silvered trigger and the clip as well. Clip release at the back bottom. Adjustable sights. How old is this gun. I bought it new I thought? I love it but have no use for it.
I also have a Mark I that I bought new in the mid 70's. 6.75" barrel, chrome trigger and magazine bottom. Magazine release is at the back bottom. Not sure when they went to the Mark II. Very accurate until the barrel gets hot. The Mark II with the bull barrel is more accurate in my experience. I paid $110 at the time. Never had one problem with it in almost 30 years. I in fact thought I had bought a Mark II but it is stamped Mark I.
I'm dying to buy a - Stainless Ruger MK. II with a 10" barrel - just like the one at the top of this page. Anyone know where I might find one?
Ray
Having feeding problems with your mark 2 or 3 go to the link below, it explained it all for me. I have no more issues, Feeding flawlessly now
http://xavierthoughts.blogspot.com/2008/10/mkii-magazine-tweak.html
In a blog dated 7/6/05, a sleeve grip for the Ruger 22/45 Model P512 was mentioned. I have searched the Hogue and Pachmyr sites with no luck. Where can a get a slip-on grip for this pistol? Any help will be appreciated.
t3126n:
The grip sleeve you are looking for is the Hogue Handall grip sleeve. The make two sizes, regular and Jr. Brownell's carries them. I'm not sure which one you want for a 22/45, but Brownell's can tell you over the phone. Your local gun shop may have them on hand, too.
.... Mr. C.
I just bought a Mk II 22/45from a friend. Sometimes it won't cycle a round. There is some forward to back play while the mag. is seated in the well. I played with the mag. position a little. He didn't tell me that when the magazine is pushed straight back while it is in the mag well, it won't feed at all. I have 3 mags., the same issue with all of them. No wonder he sold it to me, some good friend. You think your'e buying something to have some fun and... oh, well. How do I remedy my problem.
Thanks
I had a MKII Stainles Target Pistol with a 7"ish barrel for 20 years that was amazing. The bolt grip plate flew off at one point but Ruger fixed it for free fast.
I now have a MKII Stainless Competition Target Pistol w/ slab sided bull barrel and a 4X scope. OH MY GOD is this pistol accurate. It is like having a tiny, super lightweight sniper rifle.
I've had maybe two failures to eject where the empty case fails to fly free and the bolt closes on it before it is all the way clear, but that may have been a break-in issue.
I love this pistol and would buy it again in a heartbeat.
I have had my Mark II for about 20 years. I have the disassembly/assembly down, or so I thought. I follow all the instructions, barrel up, barrel down, barrel all around and get all the clicks I am supposed to. Everything appears to be as it should and the bolt cycles fine, and when I pull the trigger I can hear the firing pin activate. My problem is when I insert the clip and cycle the bolt, the bolt catches on the top of the clip and won't close all the way. Suggestions???
If you are still having a problem here is a link. There are several on youtube as well. You dont need to buy any special parts that some may suggest either. Once you know how to do it correctly its really not that hard. Just as a tip: unless you want to replace a part in the trigger group dont take it down to clean. Any spray solvent made for guns will clean the trigger group well enough. then just blow it out with compressed air.
http://guntalk-online.com/detailstrip.htm
I bought my 5-1/2" stainless bull MkII within six months after they introduced that particular model in stainless.
Since then, I've run thousands and thousands of rounds through it, using good ammo and factory mags, with not a problem that I can recall. It'll easily run hundreds and hundreds of rounds without cleaning, just a shot of oil from time to time.
The similarity in safety and bolt release locations to the 1911 pattern pistols makes it a great starter and training pistol, too.
Stripping to clean isn't hard once you learn the one trick to re-assembly, and then it's second nature.
You couldn't pay me to own a MkIII. Ruger let fear and dillweed attorneys ruin what is one of the classic firearms in our history. Shame on those dorks.
My wife inherited a Mk I Bull Barrel so I took her to the local range to shoot it. Even though her dad was in the military she had never shot a gun before. She enjoyed the gun and found it easy to shoot, and she is darned accurate! At a later time when I was using it we had a couple misfires which I believe was the ammo's fault as you could see the firing pin strike on the case. A very enjoyable gun.
I have a 1988 MK2 with tapered 7-8" barrell, and a first gen Aimpoint red dot. Think I paid $235 for gun and $130 for Aimpoint, Weaver mount and install. Has Clarke trigger, local gunsmith trigger job and polished feed ramp. shot over 10,000 rounds of anything and never had 1 jam or mis-fire since ramp work.
After about 1000 rounds I bench rested it with the red dot at 25 yards using cheap Remington hollow points, and got a pattern of 3 holes all touching, and a "flyer" less than 1/4" from the rest. Never saw ANY pistol duplicate this group, not even with a Ransom rest at 25 yards
I just had a MK II match grade, bull barrel,dropped in my lap, new in box. A relative died and the wife doesn't want any guns in the house. How much is it worth? eely2@comcast.net
I would advertise it on Gunbroker.com and ask $300 for it.
Just bought a used MK II 22/45 target model in almost pristine condition. I would like to buy some spare parts to have on hand and was wondering if th 22/45 had any inherent problems
Thanks for posting info on this! It's helping me make a good decision!
I've got a chance to try picking up an MK 1 (via auction) and I love shooting targets! I mean I love my beretta Tomcat.32 and SW.38, but they just aren't that pratical to play with that often (you all know how hard it is to find ammo these days!!)
markIII disassembly says without tools. i needed several senior gun club members to disassemble and we still have not got the gun together..i am now looking for a gun smith to reassemble the gun. where was this "thing" engineered?
For people having problems with assembly and reassembly Ruger has videos on their site to help.
http://www.ruger.com/products/markIIIStandard/extras.html
Just bought my first pistol. It's a MKIII. I shot about 50 rounds through it and went to a small gun shoot. I show up with my stock MKIII with open sights and placed 6th out of 20 people. I didnt realize spotting scopes were used to check shots during non-timed targets. These people had more $ inthere triggers than I, in my whole gun.
They now carry a 22/45 model with replaceable panels (http://ruger.com/products/2245ReplaceablePanels/index.html). They say you can use most aftermarket 1911 panels which is pretty cool. Though it is about $45 more than the normal 22/45 which is kinda silly.
I have a MkI I bought when I was 19 years old. It is the standard, fixed sights, 4.75" barrel, with the original box and in excellent condition. I am thinking about selling it but can't find any online to compare it to. Anyone have any suggestions as to a starting price?
I BOUGHT A MK1 LAST WEEK AT A YARD SALE FOR 10 DOLLARS, TOOK IT TO THE RANGE AND IT FIRED PERFECTLY. THIS IS ONE HECK OF A GUN, IM GONNA DURABAKE IT AND GIVE IT TO MY WIFE FOR VALENTINES DAY, YA I KNOW WHAT A CHARMER
where can I get a scope for my mark lll that really fits? most scopes are just too long
I have a Mk1 Target 6" brl. bought in 1953 when I was stationed in Ft. Benning, Ga. It still shoots better than I can hold.
Just bought a Ruger 22/45 MKIII after christmas, and only shot aprox 100 rounds. I have had "blow back" in my face 3 times. Does anyone know what the problem may be?
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